That you can love even more than raspberries in the summer months? And what they just do not do with her: they cook jam and compotes, freeze and dry, all to at least somehow stretch the pleasure of its use for the whole year. Any owner of a private house has a raspberry bush on the land plot, and not one. But in order to collect as many berries as possible, you need to know when it is better to plant it and how to protect it from various diseases. Now let’s figure it out.
The implementation of the choice of land under the sun
You need to find a place where the shrub can grow and develop, and most importantly, bring many berries. Although the raspberry bush can exist normally in the shade, but under such conditions there will be a small harvest. The kidneys formed at the top of the bush will freeze in the winter season. But the sunny place is recommended, and it is necessary that there are no drafts. Rows with raspberries are placed in such a way that the bush is as much as possible illuminated by the sun.
Raspberry bushes love drained and sandy soils. We must not forget about organic fertilizers.
When to plant?
Many argue when it is better to plant raspberries. Some consider them favorable time, spring, other autumn. In fact, it all depends on which climatic space you live in.
Consider the southern region. Since the autumn period in this area is warm and long, it is better to plant raspberries at the end of September. This will allow the bushes to let young roots even before the fall of frost. And as soon as heat begins, they will immediately begin to grow. If we talk about spring, it is noted that it is hot, dry and also quickly passes. In this case, the seedling through, Chur, will quickly begin to bloom, and not having time, how to let the roots properly. And due to the lack of moisture, the binge bush may not take root and completely die.
Northern region. A long spring period is noted here. The best conditions for seedlings. Unlike the south, in the north, spring is not so affectionate, so the bushes often die from frost. If you find yourself in the middle, then here you can already choose the owner, you can plant in the fall or spring. Based on experience, experts say that it is best to do this in the autumn period. The bushes planted in October will have time to become stronger to the cold, and the snow that fell first will soften the effects of frost. But this is provided that he will not have to wait long.
So, more about the features of each type of landing.
Autumn. For planting, young roots that have grown on the fallopian roots are used. They need to be removed from the ground, thoroughly inspected, if necessary, cut out non -suitable roots. For a good use of seedlings, you need:
Select a suitable place:
You can determine the moment of landing by the state of the root neck. If the leaves fall, this suggests that the growth has stopped, replacing buds have formed. This basically happens two weeks before the first frost, September-October;
prepare the site;
You can mark the ranks with the fact that this place will be constant;
When the root system is immersed in the hole, the roots are straightened, and it is controlled that they do not stick up;
After immersion, the bushes must be filled with a special mixture and trampled. In this case, the neck of the root should be at the ground level;
In order for the root system to develop according to certain periods, you need to trim the trunk. It will be enough to leave up to twenty centimeters;
At the initial stage, every day under the bush pour half a gear of liquid;
Any bush should be hilled, about ten centimeters;
All the earth located under a raspberry bush to fall asleep mulch;
by twisting the bush, the quality of its landing is checked. With weak fixation in the ground, the seedling can freeze in winter.
In the case of all points, the first summer you can rejoice in the crop.
Spring. When the sun warms, in a raspberry bush, increased movement of the juices begins. It must be taken into account that the heat can occur very soon. Those seedlings that planted in the spring already have leaves and therefore do not have time to take root properly. New shoots are formed that take a lot of nutrients into the plant itself. All because the roots that have not formed completely, unable to provide it with moisture by one hundred percent. If you cut the shoots to the kidneys themselves, this may still save the situation.
When you choose young bushes, you need to give preference to average shoots, and with a maximum of three ripened stems. In this case, they should have a fully developed root.
After the deadlines are approved, you can move on to the methods of landing, there are three of them:
in a row (joint);
All people who have at least some kind of gardening prefer an ordinary landing more. It is most convenient and allows you to grow raspberries for implementation and for your own use.
But at the same time, many opt for raspberry breeding a bush method of breeding. Since every year the bush is growing more and more, they sit at a distance of about 1.7 places from each other. By ten years of its existence, the shrub already has 10, well -developed shoots, the weakest of which are subject to pruning. When a separate method is used, the bushes grow much more fluffy than with an ordinary.
If you are the owner of a small land plot, and of course you want to plant several crops, then the best option for you would be to plant raspberry bushes in a container that may be plastic or metal. The height and diameter of the container is 50 cm. The capacity is deprived of the bottom and dug it into the ground, after which it is filled with a substrate with fertilizer mixed. This does not allow the shoots to multiply, but in the vicinity of the bush you can freely plant other plants.
There are two varieties of an ordinary method of landing, it is a trench and pit. The trench, despite its complexity, is ahead of the dimple method and professional gardeners prefer it for a long time. The determining factor was that in this case all seedlings are equally feed on all the necessary substances, therefore, they develop perfectly and give a good harvest. Trenches should rummage in advance, in three weeks. Their size: depth is 50 cm, width-55cm. Necessarily the earth is cleaned of weeds accumulated over the years. The bottom is covered with a manure of about 10 cm, which is then covered with phosphate fertilizers, and on top of the biohumus. If the soil is fertile enough, then the bottom can be strewn with it, and to improve the taste of raspberries and as a fertilizer, ash is used in a small amount.
The device of columns
Shrubs such as raspberry necessarily require a supporting structure, this is necessary so that the branches do not break under the weight of the berries. As already mentioned, the ordinary distance is about 1.8 meters, and there should be at least 30 cm between the seedlings. If you make a distance more (somewhere 70 cm), then you can plant two bushes into the hole. This is very convenient if you take into account the fact that some plants may freeze or just not take root for any reason.
Pillars must be installed at the end points of the rows, but if they are very long, then more supports will be needed. Which are driven with a frequency every 4 meters. After that, the wire is pulled 1 meter from the ground. Despite the fact that you want everything to be beautiful, you do not need to buy a new galvanizing, because it will be on it for twigs, glide, no matter how well they are tied. Another thing is a little rusty wire, it will just suit. For the first year, the resulting trellis will completely arrange a bush, but the next one is needed at an altitude of 30 cm and 1.5 meters, add two more wires, for additional fixation of shoots, which is 10 cm from each other. Tied mainly with copper wire or ropes, for whom it is convenient.
Of course, if you follow all the recommendations and do everything right, the crop of fragrant raspberries will not be long in coming.
So, the materials that will be needed:
young raspberry bushes;
organic fertilizers (humus and manure);
processing product (biohumus);
the remainder from the mineral impurities of fuel after its combustion.
manual device for digging;
a tool for biting the wire;
Pillars for trellis;
rope to mark the rows and trenches;
containers for seedlings in size 50*50;