Paul in a bathhouse is your convenience, and your warmth, and even the durability of the construction. How to make the floor in the bathhouse such as to provide comfort to its visitors, preserve the aesthetics of the premises and minimize the cost of construction?
What gender to make in the bath?
Concrete flooring on the ground
There are only two coatings:
wooden;
Concrete.
Each coating has its own characteristics and is set for its intended purpose.
When building a log house, wooden floors are installed. It is much cheaper and requires a minimum work. The floor should be made of material that can simultaneously withstand humidity and temperature (for example, linden), otherwise after a while it will have to be transcribed. It is desirable to use such a bathhouse only in the summer.
The concrete floor in the bath is most often found in brick or concrete buildings that have several rooms (washing, pre -Bannik, rest room, steam room). Such a bathhouse is used year -round and therefore is equipped with a drainage with reliable waterproofing.
Characteristics of materials
The characteristics of concrete are known to everyone – durability, strength, water resistance, frost resistance, etc. D., Therefore, we will focus on a natural tree, which is used to finish the interior of the bathhouse.
This material should withstand the corresponding parameters of moisture and temperature, which can reach 90 ° in the Russian bath, and in the sauna 130 ° degrees with a humidity of about 30%. Whatever you say, rather strict requirements, therefore, the finishing of the steam room is carried out by environmental and especially persistent types of wood that do not have harmful fumes under such conditions
From conifers, you can recommend:
larch;
pine;
cedar;
spruce;
fir.
Their inside is saturated with natural resin and serves for a long time. Selected, when heated by oil (etheric) have healing properties and affect a person favorably. Little shader is the perfect material, also in demand and cedar (Canadian).
Oak is suitable from the deciduous trees of Russia, but it is quite slippery. Apply linden, aspen and poplar is not recommended. These boards will quickly become unusable at such temperatures, and soon they will have to be transferred.
From expensive wood, you can distinguish Sarglal, Merant, Ofram and Abash. These natural materials are safely used in steam room, since their temperature does not exceed 40 degrees even at + 150 in the room.
But due to the high cost of exotic breeds (for example, from African Abash), only sunbeds and shelves are performed. When used in the construction (for ceiling, floor or walls) of the Canadian cedar or linden, in addition to a couple, aromotherapy is obtained. After all, their wood, when heated, emit a pleasant smell and beneficial (for the body) substance.
Paul laying in the bath
Warm floor in the sauna
To make the floor for the bath with your own hands, you must first evaluate your capabilities, presenting the entire amount of work. And this:
soil preparation and the creation of a drain ditch (drainage pit);
laying of all components and gender itself;
floor insulation;
processing of plank floors with various compositions.
Preparation of soil and plum
The drain for draining is dug, which is covered with clay or formed from concrete;
Depending on the type and material of the floor, a ladder, a drain groove (with or without a shutter) are installed in the drain ditch;
The soil under the floor is covered with gravel.
If the soil under the bath is sandy, you can dig a hole (drainage). Its volume is calculated with a margin based on the calculation of 1 cubic meter per 1 person. It is covered with gravel, gravel, stones, broken brick. The surface of the soil near the pit is triggered and covered with roofing ground, with a slope towards the pit.
If the site is clay, then they dig:
The ditch in which the gutter is placed (they buy plastic or performed from concrete) or covered with clay;
Pyatok 0.5 x 0.5 m. The thickness of the walls of the pier should be at least 0.1 m, depth 0.4 m. A drain with a dud is installed in it (a metal plate, in the lower part of which you can strengthen a wooden bar).
The shutter works on the principle of the float. In the presence of water in the stock, the plate rises and opens the drain pipe. As the water decreases, it closes and in the end overlaps the pipe, not missing the smell from the sewer.
Concrete floors device in the bath
The most optimal (in the sense of operation, withstanding the temperature and humidity drop) is considered the construction of concrete coating. In the following drawings, the locations and laying layers are given from the foundation or soil. Schemes differ, but slightly. The floor level in the bath can reach 30 – 50 cm and you must need to make a ladder for entering.
Option 1. Laying on the ground (if a bath without a foundation)
The soil is covered with gravel with sand (at least 15 cm).
Perform a drain system according to the method of described above (with a ladder or pipes for draining water).
Put or make a concrete base.
Glue it with vapor barrier film.
Put a heater (polystyrene foam or some other).
It is waterproofing with polyethylene.
Make a screed (with a “warm floor” or without).
Put the tile (not indicated in the diagram).
Option 2. Laying on the foundation
The base with the drain system is performed on the foundation.
Pay waterproofing.
Put on the insulation.
Make a screed (with a reinforcing mesh).
Put the “warm floor”.
Clouled with tiles.
Wooden floor for a bathhouse
Dumped coatings (performed from boards of 19-29 mm thick) there are two types:
Continuous (not leaking).
Not continuous (leaking).
The continuous floor is very often laid on top of the concrete screed on the lags. It has a certain bias to the pit or drainage pit, from which water is excreted in the sewer or soil, respectively. Such a coating is difficult to dry, and therefore it is subject to quick damage. Change boards preferably every 5 years.
Boards for this type of coating should have a profile-base (as on a laminate). They are covered tightly and tightened with each other with wedges. A general slope can be made for drain (one side of the floor is slightly higher than the rest). At the place of plum (over the entire wall), a groove is installed for water care.
The second type – leaking floors – is more convenient when creating and quite practical during operation. The boards can not be strengthened (nail, screw), but simply put on the lags, using small wedges at the walls for fastening. It is easier to make the coating, it is ventilated better and withstands extreme temperatures of steam room for longer.
It is not necessary to adjust the boards for such a sex, since gaps up to 5 mm are provided between them. Some people make a “double” floor: they buy a double set of boards and change them, taking out the wedges. You can change every time after bathing or after a while (but at least a week). The change order is as follows:
take out the wedges and remove the first (wet) set;
put a new (dry) set and drive wedges;
The old set is dried and after the next acceptance of the bath they change again.
The installation of floors of both types is performed in the following sequence:
The soil is prepared. A pit is made from clay or concrete (see. description above);
Lags are installed on the lower crown, columns or directly on the foundation;
The coating itself is laid (continuous or with gaps up to 5 mm).
For a leaking flooring, it is important to provide about 1/2 m for natural blowing and drying the boards.
Install the lags on the waterproofing film.
Paul with a ladder
Paul with a puzzle (gravel)
Floor insulation
If the floor in the bath is not insulated, then it will remain cold, despite the high temperature in the steam room. And the visitor will be unpleasant. Insulation should be carried out before laying the main coating.
Concrete floor
It can be insulated with polystyrene, or perlite. For perlite, two layers of concrete are needed. This is an expensive option. One coating layer is performed. Then prepare a perlite solution in water according to the following technology:
Take two buckets of perlite per bucket of water. Mix.
Fall asleep a little cement and mix again.
Add a bucket of perlite and ½ l water.
The mixture is interfered until water performs.
Then the mixture is laid out on concrete and leveled. In a week, the top layer of concrete is laid.
Foam insulation is much cheaper and is carried out much faster. He himself does not pass water and is an excellent heat insulator. It cannot be used on the walls of the steam room, but it can be used when installing the flooring, which does not heat up to extreme temperatures.
After the waterproofing of the base, foam slabs, screed with a net (reinforcing) and then according to the pattern are performed.
Doned floor
It is easy to insulate it. Insulation (foam, extruded polystyrene foam) is inserted between the lags and the main coating is laid down.
Heater can be fiberglass, mineral wool, jute, expanded clay, slag.
How to process the floor in the bathhouse
Mostly processing the plank floor due to the susceptibility of decay. But from the premises of the bath, serious disputes flare up. Many process all rooms except the steam room, claiming that the replacement of boards every 5 years is a small waste. On the one hand – the use of different means will cause unpleasant odors and evaporation. On the other hand, the boards in extreme conditions decompose faster.
For impregnation, you can use both folk remedies and purchased.
Folk compositions:
linseed oil with aromatic additives (to the taste of the owner);
hemp oil;
sunflower oil (with a minimum smell, refined);
melted wax, natural (boots, sprinkle before application).
When impregnating with oils (at first), fat will be released until they are absorbed into the boards.
It is forbidden to apply paints and varnishes. They will cause additional evaporation and the tree will rot faster.
Purchased funds:
antiseptics;
impregnations and oils.
They are chosen according to the characteristics provided on the packaging
Lags are covered with a bourgeon or antiseptic.
Materials for the installation of floors
Concrete.
Cement, sand.
Gravel.
Clay.
Bricks.
Boards, bars, lining.
Hydroe and vapor barrier films.
Insulation.
Reinforcing mesh.
Glue.
Pipes (drainage or sewage).
GOLOBE.
Nails.
Screws.
Impregnations and antiseptics.
Tar.
Tools
Drill with nozzles (for stirring solutions).
Shovel, intercourse.
Hammer, screwdriver, pliers.
Knife, hacksaw.
Master OK.