Among other questions, often asked in construction forums, you can often hear this: how to fix drywall to the ceiling? Today we will try to tell as much as possible about the process of creating even, beautiful and reliable drywall ceilings.
Hypsum cardboard fastening to the ceiling – advice of experienced finishes
The video has useful tips for the installation of drywall on the ceiling
First, let’s talk about how they do not advise attaching plasterboard sheets professional masters. In addition to installation on a frame of metal profiles, there are two more ways to fix GKL or GKLV on the ceiling – this is a fixation on a special glue for drywall and screwing to a wooden frame.
The main disadvantage of the first method is the unreliable fastening. Even despite the fact that with this installation method the sheet is cut into several parts (which in itself complicates the work), on one “wonderful” day the entire gypsum cardboard structure can be on the floor. Of course, this method makes it possible not to reduce the height of the ceilings, as is the case during the frame fastening of the sheets, but the safety and reliability of the design are still much more important.
Until recently, most ceiling and wall plasterboard structures were attached to a frame of wooden racks. Today, almost all masters replaced the rails with metal guides for several reasons. First, it is quite difficult to find a perfectly even and dry wooden block. Secondly, the tree can dry out over time or, if there is a lot of humidity in the room, dares, which will invariably lead to its deformation. Following the bars will also be deformed by drywall sheets – which means that noticeable cracks will appear on the renovated ceiling.
No less often on the forums you can find the question of how to nail drywall? In fact, the error lies in the formulation itself, because it is impossible to mount gypsum plasterboard sheets with nails and hammer. Fasten drywall (if we are not talking about an adhesive method) exclusively with the help of self -tapping screws and screwdrivers or, in extreme cases, screwdrivers.
Mark the “bridgehead” for fastening drywall to the ceiling
The video tells – how to mount a drywall ceiling
The first thing to do before starting the installation of a profile frame is to mark the places where the guides will be attached. For ceiling structures, galvanized UDs are used as guides – profiles with a section of 27×28 mm.
For marking it is best to use the laser level, which gives the most accurate results. It is installed in such a way that its beam proceeds from the selected reference point. This point is made in one of the corners of the room at a distance of about six centimeters from the ceiling. The principle of operation of this “device” is such that the beam emerging from the point will be closed on itself, and you will receive the perfect marking line that will need to be duplicated by the construction pencil. You can replace the laser level by water – it gives no less accurate results, but you will have to tinker with it a little longer. But it is better to abandon the use of the usual level, since its indications have an error, unacceptable when creating a ceiling from GKL.
Now you can proceed to the installation of guides. You will need some tools and consumables:
Punch or drill;
a hammer;
Dowel-gvo 6×40.
Fasten the profiles to the wall with a step of about 75 cm. Since the length of the profile is usually three meters, five mestizations will be required for one guide. The profile is applied to the wall according to the marking, and the holes for the dowels are drilled (with a perforator, if the surface is concrete and drill, if wooden). Then the dowel is driven into the wall, and then the nail. The same procedure is repeated for all other guides.
Now it’s time to fix the suspensions on the ceiling. They are mounted along lines drawn from one short wall of the room to another. The distance between the lines should be multiple of the width of the sheet (1.2 m) – that is, 40 or 60 cm. One suspension from another should defend the same 60 cm.
Now it is necessary to install CD profiles with a cross section of 60×27 mm in the guides. They must be recorded so that their middle line strictly coincides with the drawn on the ceiling. Metal slats are attached to each other with small screws with a drill (they are called bugs) or using a ladder. The profiles are fixed exclusively with “bugs” to the suspensions. If the length of the profile is not enough, it is joined with another with the help of an extension cord. You can cut the guides only with good scissors for metal, since the grinder can damage the galley layer.
Another stage of operation before attaching drywall to the ceiling is the installation of additional CD profiles, which will ensure the rigidity of the structure. They are attached between the installed longitudinal profiles at a distance of half a meter from each other (since the length of the drywall sheet is two and a half meters) so that as a result, the ceiling is a design consisting of many rectangles with a size of 50×60 (or 50×40) cm cm. CD-profiles are connected with the help of the so-called “crabs”. At the same time, you need to take care of the electrical wiring – it is mounted before the fastening of drywall sheets to the ceiling.
Before fastening the drywall to the resulting design, it is necessary to check it for stiffness and, if necessary, additionally fix it. If the resulting frame is firmly held and does not “walk”, it’s time to move on to the installation of sheets.
The final stage or how to fasten a drywall to the ceiling?
Now you can proceed to the story of how to fix drywall to the ceiling. First of all, you (if all the work is carried out alone) will need a lift or a lock for sheets. In addition, you will need metal screws about 5 cm long and a screwdriver.
As you remember, the distance between the central lines of profiles 60×27 mm is 50 and 60 (40) cm. This was done so that the edges of the sheets were not suspended in the air, but screwed up to the profile. When installing sheets between them, you need to leave a 5 mm distance – exactly the same gap should be between the GCL and the walls. In order to facilitate the conclusion of the wiring later, do not forget to mark the location of the wire output. When twisting the screws, make sure that the hats go into the thickness of the sheet by no more than 5 mm.
It is not necessary to screw the screws close to the edge of the sheet – it is best to retreat from it by 2 cm; the distance from one self-tapping screw to another should be one and a half to two tens of centimeters.
This is where our story about how the drywall is attached to the ceiling is completed. Now you can only get the “non -native” seams on the sheets, put them and the entire surface of the drywall, and then move on to their finishing.
